Cold-Weather Menu from Lucques

Last fall, I made this absolutely delicious menu that ran in Food & Wine magazine. The recipes are from Lucques, a restaurant in Los Angeles that I will be eager to visit the next time I find myself in L.A., based on the caliber of this meal. The restaurant's chef, Suzanne Goin, has also written Sunday Suppers at Lucques, which I'll add to the long list of cookbooks I hope to someday own. 

This is a sophisticated yet hearty menu for a cold fall or winter night. I plan to make it again int he coming weeks. It'd be great with Marcus Samuelsson's excellent apple cake for dessert.

Bratwurst with Mustardy Fried Potatoes and Braised Cabbage
From Food & Wine

1/4 cup diced shallots
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup whole-grain mustard
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes
16 bratwursts
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
Citrus-Spiced Red Cabbage (recipe below)
1 bunch of watercress, thick stems discarded

1. In a bowl, combine the shallots and vinegar and let stand for 5 minutes; stir in both mustards. Whisk in 3/4 cup of the oil and season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper.
2. In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the potatoes until tender, 30 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly, then slip off the skins. Break the potatoes into 1 1/2-inch chunks.
3. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Grill the bratwursts over moderate heat, turning, until heated through, 10 to 15 minutes.
4. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the potatoes and thyme and season with salt and pepper. Cook over moderately high heat, turning, until golden and crisp, 6 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette and the parsley. Season with salt and pepper and toss to evenly coat.
5. Arrange half of the Citrus-Spiced Red Cabbage on a serving platter. Scatter the potatoes and three-fourths of the watercress over the cabbage and top with half of the bratwursts. Repeat with the remaining cabbage, watercress and bratwursts. Pass the remaining vinaigrette at the table.

Citrus-Spiced Red Cabbage

One 1-pound red cabbage—halved, cored and sliced 1/8-inch thick
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/3 cup sugar
1/4 cup duck fat or unsalted butter
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons thyme leaves
1 árbol chile with seeds, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 cups dry red wine
1/2 cup port

1. In a large bowl, toss the cabbage, lemon juice and orange juice. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour, tossing occasionally.
2. Set a large enameled cast-iron casserole over moderate heat for 1 minute. Add the sugar in an even layer and cook without stirring until melted and starting to caramelize, about 3 minutes. Stir in the duck fat. Add the onion, thyme, chile, allspice, 1 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of pepper. Cook over moderate heat, stirring often, until the onion is lightly caramelized, about 7 minutes. Stir in the wine and port and cook over moderately high heat until the liquid is reduced to 2/3 cup, about 5 minutes. Add the cabbage and accumulated juices and 1 teaspoon of salt. Cook over moderate heat, stirring often, until the cabbage is tender and glazed, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot or warm.

Plus: Marcus Samuelsson's Apple Cake